Soft Furnishings
Draped Nets
October 24, 2011 | 
Author The type of net draped to the sides of the window is especially effective on large and full length windows. If necessary, join widths to give adequate fullness, using a narrow French or run-and-fell seam. To determine the number of widths to use, divide the window width into three. Each curtain occupies two thirds of that width, so that they overlap across the middle third of the window. Use 2-2 ½ times the finished width in each curtain. The fabric must be cut to accommodate the additional length, so the pattern for cutting will be longer on one side than on the other.
To calculate these length, pin a piece of string to the window frame at point A, drape it loosely to the point where the tie-back will hold it, and let it hang to the sill or floor, depending on where the bottom hem of the curtain will fall, B. The other side is a straight measurement. Add 7.5cm for the heading and casing, and 2.5cm for a double hem at the bottom. Make a pair of curtains to mirror each other for opposite sides. Because of the overlap, you will need two plastic coated wires to hang the curtains on, but you can fix them to the same hooks at the sides of the window frame.
The curtains need tie-backs to hold them in the draped position. Cut a piece of plain next 10cm wide and 30cm long. Turn in the ends by 1.5cm and fold the sides to the center. This will give a strip 2.5cm wide and 27cm long. Close the ends and open side by slip stitching, and sew a small ring to each end for fitting over a hook.
Duvet cover and Cot Lining
By comparison, making an outer cover for the duvet is simple. Buy polyester/cotton sheeting as large as the duvet, adding a 10cm margin to both the width and length to avoid restricting the duvet itself. Sew it round the top and two sides making a French seam. Turn in the allowance at the bottom edge into a double 2cm seam, stitch up about 10cm at each side and attach poppered tape or Velcro to close the opening.
Cot Lining
Washable and reversible cotton/polyester quilting is by far the best material for lining a cot as its padding will prevent the baby hurting itself against the cot bars, and it will keep out draughts. You will need fabric to go round the four sides of the cot but it need not go right up to the top of the bars about 30cm high is easily enough to protect a baby’s head. The base of the cot lining goes under the mattress so it can be made from lining material, calico or other washable left-over fabric. You will also need 2.5m of ribbon to match the quilting. Cut the fabric for the four sides and the base, including seam allowances of 1.25cm. Join the two short ends to one of the long sides so that the right side of the seams will face in towards the cot. Trim the seams, press them and cover them with binding to neaten them. Also bind the raw edges of the two end pieces and round the top edge. Sew the base to these three sides, right side of quilting to under side of the base – all the raw edges will eventually be hidden by the mattress. Turn the structure so that the seams are inside. Then deal with the remaining long side, first binding its side and top edges and then sewing it to the open edge of the base, wrong sides together. The fourth side has to be unattached, except at the base, so that when the side of the cot is let down it doesn’t get in the way. Cut the ribbon into 12 equal lengths and attach six in three pairs down each long side of the cot lining at each corner and at or near the middle to correspond with a cot bar. The ribbons are tied round the bars to keep the lining in place.
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Tags: bed room decor, bedding, decorating your home, home care, home maintenance | 
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Bordered Pillowcase
Again, you will have to make this type of pillowcase from three pieces of material. The bottom piece should be the width and length of the pillow plus 8cm for turnings, and room for getting the pillow in and out. The top should have an extra 14cm added to the width and length which allows for borders of 6cm and a total of 2cm of turnings. The pocket section should be the width of the bottom section and 16cm deep. First machine sew a narrow hem along one of the short ends of the bottom piece, then along one of the long ends of the pocket.
Fold under all the edges of the larger top piece by 1cm and press down another 7cm. Miter the corners and sew down the mitering to form a neat border. Take the pocket piece and, with wrong sides together, slip the raw edges between the folded borders at one end. Tack it and then machine-zigzag only along the long edge. Now place the prepared bottom section on the top piece, wrong sides together, so that the hem is at the pocket end. Insert all the raw edges evenly between the borders. Tack them in position and zigzag stitch to finish. All the raw edges are thus hidden within the border. If you want the border to be in a contrasting material cut four strips the length of the pillow plus twice the depth of the border, plus 1cm for two 1cm turnings.
Each piece should be about 14cm wide. The top and bottom sections of the case will have the same dimensions this time. Fold the strips in half lengthwise, and miter and stitch the corners, right sides together. Turn and press the border, and slip it between the prepared main sections of the pillow case. the inside edges of this version will be raw so you should machine zigzag them or overcast them by hand. Instead of fabric strips you could use lengths of rushed lace and slip a single layer of it between the top and bottom of the pillowcase.
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Pillow case with frill
A frill adds a decorative touch to a pillow and is popular when used with a duvet since the pillows are visible during the day. This type of pillowcase is made from three sections, plus the frill. The separate pocket section should be cut to the width of the top and bottom sections and to a depth of 16cm. start by making the frill itself. Its length will be 1 ½ to 2 times the perimeter of the pillow. You may find it convenient to economic on cutting by making up the frill from shorter width. Seams do not matter as they will be unobtrusive.
Sew the widths end to end, open out the seams and press them. The width of the frill itself should be doubled 2.5cm, plus 2.5cm, for the seam, so a total of 7.5cm. Sew the short ends of the long strip together right sides together, and open and press them. Fold the fabric lengthwise, wrong sides together into a continuous tube, and sew two lines of gathering stitch all round, 1.25cm and 1cm in from the raw edges. Gather up the frill to the outer dimensions of the case. Pin it to one of the main sections, right sides and raw edges together.
Adjust the frill give a fairly even gather all round except on the corners, where it is important to have plenty of fullness or the finished frill will not stand out well from the pillow. Sew the frill round the pillow along the line of the gathering stitch nearest to the edge of the frill. Take the pocket section and make it double hem down one of its lengths, allowing 18mm for turnings. Lay it over the frilled section of the pillowcase, right sides together, and sew along the end seam. Press it right sides out.
Make a double hem across one end of the other section with 18mm furnishings. Place the two pieces of fabric right sides together, and stitch round the sides and bottom 1cm in from the raw edges. Keep the frill carefully tucked in so that you do not catch it in the seams. You cannot use a French seam if you are inserting a frill so you will have to trim the corners and neaten the seams with machine zigzagging or overcastting by hand.
Bed Linen
First determine the width of fabric you need. Sheeting comes in a width of 228cm which is generally wide enough to avoid uncomfortable seams. Measure across the bed and add double the depth of the mattress. Add 45cm for each side as a tuck-under. For the length, measure the length of the bed, plus twice the depth of the mattress, plus 30cm for the head end, and 45cm for a tuck –under at the bottom. Add an allowance for a double 7.5cm hem at the top, and a double 5cm hem at the bottom. Cut out the material and machine sews both the hems. Repeat for a pair. You could give the top sheet a decorative lace or broderie anglaise edging.
Fitted Sheets
The elasticized fitting is used on all four corners of the sheet to pull it taut. This is where you can really benefit from doing the work yourself by achieving a perfect fit for your particular bed. Measure the length and width of the mattress. Add to these measurements twice the depth of the mattress. Add 11.5cm to each side and end to allow for the part tucked underneath the mattress and for hem allowances of 1.5cm. Buy sheeting to these measurements and a meter of 1cm wide elastic. Cut out the fabric.
Mark in pins at all the corners a square with sides measuring the mattress depth plus 10cm. cut out and machine-stitch the corners, right sides together. Trim off the excess fabric and neaten the edges, which is the best done by machine zigzagging. Press up a hem on the wrong side all the way round the sheet, taking 5mm on the first turning and 2cm on the second. Machine stitch along all four sides but start and finish 15cm from the corners. Also stitch round the corners but leave 2cm gaps to insert the elastic. Cut the elastic into four lengths of 25cm each. Insert on into level with the openings so that the corners are gathered up.