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    About Me – Carol Langenberg

    Hi friends, this is Carol Langenberg. Being a home maker my main job is to take care of my home and children. So I spend most of my time to take care of my family and home. I love to keep my home as neat and elegant. I follow many methods and way to maintain the beauty of my. I just want to share my thoughts and ideas to all of you, so I have started this blog. In this blog one can find a variety of tips to take care of their family home.

    Disclosure Policy

    This is my personal blog created to share all my own ideas and thoughts to my readers. I never write articles with the influence of others. This blog accept cash for advertising, sponsorship and paid insertions for some of the articles that I write. I do not write and publish anything divergent to my opinion and I have the rights to reject posts that I do not agree with. I write the truth and follow all international ethical guidelines of blogging. I also follow the best practices of internet and online advertising.

    Posts Tagged ‘decorating your home’

    Sew tabs with café curtains

    A method more usually associated with café curtains is to sew tabs along the top edge for the pole to go through. Make up the basic curtain first. The length will be from a point about 7.5cm below the rod to the bottom point of the finished curtain. Add 15cm for a double 7.5cm bottom hem, and 2.5 cm for a top hem. Café curtains should not be too full, so 1 ½ times the width of the pole is ample. Add 10cm for a double 2.5cm hem at each side. Café curtain look best from the outside if they are lined – bagged type of lining works well. Make up the curtains except for the top edge. Make the tabs from the same fabric as the curtains. Cut enough tabs to fit at 15cm intervals along the width of the curtain. Measure the circumference of the pole; add on a total of 2.5cm for seam allowances and another 5cm for movement.

    This will be the length of the piece of material to cut for each tab. The finished width will be about 6 or 7cm, so double that for the two sides and add 2.5cm for seam allowances. Fold each piece in two along its length, right sides together, without creasing the fold. Sew along the seam 1.5cm in from the edge. Open out the seam and press it. Turn the tab inside out, position the seam down the center of the tab, and press down the side folds. Press towards each other by 2.5cm. Pin the tabs 15cm apart and ensure that all the raw edges are enclosed allow a 1.25cm seam allowances at each end of the tab. Try the curtain on the pole to see that all the tabs lie comfortably. Then remove it and stitch along the top edge of the curtain so that the tabs are fixed in place and the top edge is closed.

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    Café Curtains

    Café curtains are an attractive and well established way of dressing a window. They fit over the bottom half of the window which gives privacy to people sitting in the room, traditionally, of course to diners eating at café tables. At the same time they let in daylight through the top half of the window. In some circumstances you could consider them as an alternative to net curtains. Café curtains look especially good on sash windows where the frame is divided by a horizontal bar. The curtains can be fitted to the height of this bar for a neat visual effect. You could consider hanging café curtains with a matching pelmet. There are many ways of making café curtains.

    Most types fit into two end sockets, after the curtain is hung on it, or you can use other arrangements. A d-i-y or department store should be able to provide you with a good range of rods and fittings. One of the simplest methods is to attach clip-on rings through which the pole is slotted. You make up the curtain in the usual way, but also turn down the top heading into a double hem, forming mitered corners there too. Then clip on the rings at regular intervals across the top. Or you can sew large curtain rings along the top edge, at intervals of about 10cm, with a neat buttonhole stitch. Again, the top hem should be completed first in the same way as the bottom hem. A cased heading is the next easiest method and suitable for sheer fabrics.

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    Duvet cover and Cot Lining

    By comparison, making an outer cover for the duvet is simple. Buy polyester/cotton sheeting as large as the duvet, adding a 10cm margin to both the width and length to avoid restricting the duvet itself. Sew it round the top and two sides making a French seam. Turn in the allowance at the bottom edge into a double 2cm seam, stitch up about 10cm at each side and attach poppered tape or Velcro to close the opening.

    Cot Lining

    Washable and reversible cotton/polyester quilting is by far the best material for lining a cot as its padding will prevent the baby hurting itself against the cot bars, and it will keep out draughts. You will need fabric to go round the four sides of the cot but it need not go right up to the top of the bars about 30cm high is easily enough to protect a baby’s head. The base of the cot lining goes under the mattress so it can be made from lining material, calico or other washable left-over fabric. You will also need 2.5m of ribbon to match the quilting. Cut the fabric for the four sides and the base, including seam allowances of 1.25cm. Join the two short ends to one of the long sides so that the right side of the seams will face in towards the cot. Trim the seams, press them and cover them with binding to neaten them. Also bind the raw edges of the two end pieces and round the top edge. Sew the base to these three sides, right side of quilting to under side of the base – all the raw edges will eventually be hidden by the mattress. Turn the structure so that the seams are inside. Then deal with the remaining long side, first binding its side and top edges and then sewing it to the open edge of the base, wrong sides together. The fourth side has to be unattached, except at the base, so that when the side of the cot is let down it doesn’t get in the way. Cut the ribbon into 12 equal lengths and attach six in three pairs down each long side of the cot lining at each corner and at or near the middle to correspond with a cot bar. The ribbons are tied round the bars to keep the lining in place.

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    Duvet

    You may think it worthwhile to make your own duvet only if you have an unusually large bed. Alternatively you may want to convert an old eiderdown but you will have to supplement the filling as an equivalent duvet needs more down. The duvet consists of a channeled bag filled with goose or duck down, feathers or synthetic material. Goose down is considered the best and most luxurious because it is the lightest, but synthetic filling is the cheapest, easiest to handle and is washable.

    The bag is divided into compartments to keep the feathers evenly distributed. Its light weight and flexibility enable it to sink around the sleeper’s body, eliminating pockets of cold air and providing perfect insulation. You can buy the type of filling you prefer from a good upholstery supplier. The fabric used for the duvet itself must down proof cambric which is waxed on one side to stop the sharp quills poking through. The cambric is covered by a second bag which is taken for washing. To decide upon the size of the duvet, measure the bed from top to bottom and from side to side. Add at least 20cm at the bottom of the bed for the overhang, and at least 40cm to the width measurement for the overhang at the two sides.

    It relies on its weight to seal up the gaps at the side of the bed and it you have insufficient overhang; you may well find that the edges are not sealed. To all these measurements add a further 2.5cm at the top, bottom and both sides for the seam turnings. Cut two pieces of cambric to these measurements. Sew them with French seams around the two sides and top. If the cambric is too small to make the bag from one width, sew widths together using a French seam, joining right sides together first. Trim the seam turnings turn the bag inside out and machine sews round the seams again.

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    Heading Tape

    You will need to decide exactly which type of heading tape you want to use, and calculate the length. It is possible to make your own headings but there are enough good manufactured tapes for this to be unnecessary. If you are planning to make several curtains with the same heading, you might feel it worth investing in a full roll of the particular type. The main types of heading tapes in general use are as follows:

    Standard tape: Draws the curtain up into a simple gather. It produces a shallow heading and can be used with an exposed track but is generally more suitable for use with pelmets. It takes standard curtain hooks, which should be inserted every 8cm for medium-weight curtains. You will need twice the track width of both tape and fabric.

    Pencil pleat tape: The most straightforward and satisfactory type of decorative type when there is no pelmet. It draws up into a tidy series of tight pleats approximately the thickness of a pencil, and takes standard hooks. Some versions are stiffened to give a firm crisp heading, and an extra deep version is available to give a well proportioned heading for floor-length curtains. Special versions of pencil pleating tape are available for net and sheer curtains. Use two and half times the track width for the deeper heading tape, and up to three times the track width for net curtains.

    Triple Pleat tape: Gives the effect of a group of three pinched pleats without the need for long-pronged hooks. Drawing up the strings produces spaced triple pleats. It is available in a variety of depths – 14cms, 9cm and 4 cm – buy any of these to twice the track width.

    Cartridge pleat tape: This heading produces a well-rolled pleat effect and evenly hanging curtains below the heading. Use the hooks recommended by the manufacturer. You will need twice the track width.

    Lining Tape: Used for detachable linings and is hung on the curtain hooks.

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    Measuring the Window

    The first job is to measure up for the curtains. Take a notebook and pencil to the window, together with a rule and a chair or stepladder for standing on. A meter stick or an extending steel rule is useful. Sketch a picture of the window on your notepad and determine how far on each side, and above and below, the curtain should extend. First the height above, which will be where the track will fit. If the window is extremely small, 8cm will be sufficient. If the window is slightly larger, say one meter or more in depth, and then a distance of 12cm will be approximately right for the position of the track. Determine the finished width of the track.

     Remember that if the window is wide you will need more space at each side for containing the curtain when it is drawn back. If you have chosen to fit the track 12cm above the window, then a distance of 12cm on each side will be appropriate. If the window is smaller, and the track lower, it should extend less at the sides. Lastly work out the length of the curtain. Put a small pencil mark on the wall below the sill at the point where you think the bottom of the curtain should hang. Again, 12cm or a little more below the window will be about right. If the curtains are to hang in a recess, let them fall to about 1cm above the recess. Floor length curtains should hang about 1cm above the floor.

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    Tracks and Fittings

    There is a bewildering array of curtain track fittings hanging system, and manufacturers change their ranges often. So the best way to choose is to study the range of tracks currently available. Your choice will depend on your decorating scheme, on the type of heading and on the weight of the fabric. These will dictate the style and material of the track it might be aluminum, plastic, brass, brass plated metal, or wood. You might prefer a pole which would look elegant in some period settings, especially when used to carry full length curtains in a large room. If you prefer the convenience of a track but the appearance of a pole, there is available a half-section pole which conceals a track mechanism. If you are using a pelmet, a board will probably be essential to carry the weight, but a valance can be carried on a curtain track.

    Tracks are available that can be bent to follow the contours of the area, such as a bay or dormer window. For a dormer window, a continuation of the track round the sides allows you to draw the curtain completely away from the window in order to let in as much light as possible. If you prefer detachable linings, you may find it useful to install the type of track which takes a special kind of hooked glider on which you can hang both the curtain and the lining. Most manufacturers make a system for opening and closing the curtains with a single pulled cord which will save the fabric from handling. You should also consider this if the curtains are very tall or heavy. It is possible to install an electrically operated opening and closing system. if you are to close and open the curtains by hand, you can fit rods to the inner edge hooks to avoid handling and possibly soiling the curtain fabric itself. Or you can fit a tasseled draw-cord.

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    Lined Curtains

     

    Curtains play a vital role in improving the interior look of home. It adds more beauty to the home. Most curtains benefit from being lined. The lining helps to keep the curtain clean, acts as an insulator against the cold and noise, looks neater from the outside of the house than the reverse side of the curtain fabric, and helps to stop the curtain fabric fading by taking the full impact of any direct sunlight (silk rots in sunlight). Choose lining fabric either to match the curtain fabric, or in white, beige or cream. Colored linings will show fading before pale ones, and may show through and affect the look of the curtain adversely.

     

    You can also add interlining. Lined-and-interlined curtains are only slightly more difficult to make than lined-only curtains, and are worth the extra expense. The interlining is a layer of cotton-based or synthetic fabric between the lining and curtain. Correctly fitted, it gives the edges of the curtain a thickness and ‘roll’ that lends a touch of luxury to even the most modest fabric and, perhaps more importantly, it forms an even more effective insulation barrier by keeping the heat inside and cutting out draughts. Make sure that the curtain fabric, lining and interlining are all compatible in terms of washing or dry-cleaning.

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    Soft Furnishings

    Few skills are more valuable in your home than the ability to make your own curtains. Almost every room needs them, and then has a critical influence on its appearance. In general, a window’s position and proportion in relation to the whole room can be enhanced or disguised appropriately. If you choose a fabric which is in harmony with the other decorations and furnishings in the room, the curtains will have a calming influence. You might even consider having wallpaper and curtain fabric matching other items in the room. Or, for a dramatic effect, choose a fabric with a bold design. The type of fabric itself can have a great influence on the character and style of a room. The subtle light and shade effect of plain velvet can generate a feeling of opulence. A colorful cotton print will cheer up an otherwise dingy space.

    When choosing the fabric bear in mind that it may need to be hard wearing and easy to clean. Toweling and plastic coated fabrics would be practical choices for a kitchen or bathroom. Some upholstery fabrics are too heave and don’t drape well, and even those heavy fabrics that are suitable might have to be rejected if their bulk will cut down light when they are drawn back. If the room is quite dark, don’t cut out more light than you need. If there is a radiator beneath the window, floor-length curtains may prevent the heat coming into the room efficiently when they are closed.

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    Preparation Equipment

    There are mainly two types of tools are needed for painting; one is needed to prepare the surface for painting. And another one is for putting the paint on. For a stonework wall, it is imperative to wash down the previously painted surface and it is the minimum preparation needed for painting such kind of walls. It requires only few things like sponges and cloths, bucket, rubber gloves to protect the hands, and strong household detergent or sugar soap. Sometimes it may feels hard to touch the surface, so it is better use sanding block and fine abrasive paper to smooth it. It is better to use wet paper which is superlative for sanding down the paintwork which was already done; rinse off with water afterwards. It is better to use normal abrasive paper for bare wood. Imperfections in the surface need filling.

    In case of small cracks use traditional cellulose filler, chips and other surface blemishes, and expanding filler foam which can be sanded and shaped that can be used for larger defects. Apply filler paste by using a filling knife. Use heat gun which is easier to control and safe to use to strip existing paintwork. It will be more effective to eliminate the softened paint. For confiscating wall coverings in order to apply a ceiling finish or painted wall, a steam wallpaper stripper will be very useful. The small all-in-one strippers which look like a large stream iron are the best way to use.

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